Monday, September 19, 2011

A Road Less Travelled - Swiss Riviera

Early morning mists still hangs loosely over the blue-green water of Lac Léman as the first ray of the sun touches the tiled roofs at St. Saphorin. The heavy droplets of the overnight dew drips of the vine leaves and the smell of freshly baked baguettes wafts through the steep and narrow alleys of Rivaz. At this very hour when the late night crowds haven’t left their crumpled bed sheets at Lausanne and Genève, Monsieur Pierre checks the health of his Chasselas and Gamays. With whiffs of lavender in its cool morning breeze from the Jura Mountains every new dawn ushers in La Cote. Bonjour Swiss Riviera!

When the sensory deprived Brits head for Cote d’Azur or Canary Islands for their annual dose of sun and garlic and flight loads of honeymooners throng Interlaken, Swiss Riviera remains to its locals. This is the place known for its illustrious locals. So with Michael Schumacher, Lewis Hamilton or Shaina Twain as neighbours no body is complaining either.

The best way to start your journey is from Montreux! A ride by Golden Pass Panorama through the picturesque Bernese Oberland in the Swiss Alps takes you to this glamorous little city overlooking the haute lac Léman. Made famous by the ‘Deep Purple’ classic ‘Smoke on the water, fire in the sky’, when a Frank Zappa fan with a flare gun burnt down the Casino where the band was performing. 

Starting with the International Jazz festival in summer and numerous wine festivals in autumn till the Christmas Markets in winter, the city offers a unique blend of art-culture and gastronomy all year round. A vibrant night life and the sun drenched lake front draws all and sundry as the white sailboats and the graceful swans dot the shoreline.

A luxurious ride from Montreux on a 1915 vintage ‘Belle Epoque’ Pullman Car, can take you to the medieval village of Gruyères, known to all cheese lovers around the world. The ascent continues till Broc, where the famous Cailler-Nestlé chocolate factory offers you the tricks and tips of fine chocolate making. And sure, the complementary chocolate tasting won’t cost you a dime! The ever popular cog wheel train ride to Rochers-de-Naye is not to be missed either! So before you head for the ‘Marmot Paradise’, gorge yourself on the spectacular view of Montreux and the vast expanse of Lake Geneva. 

One of the best preserved medieval castles of Château de Chillon is located only 3 kilometers down south of Montreux. This thirteenth century castle from the Savoy era on the lake shore fired the imaginations of great minds like Jean-Jacques Rousseau to Lord Byron. As the sun sets over Evian across the lake and the heady aroma of Clos de Chillon and oozy goodness of Fondue fills the air in the cafes, the last cruise boat leaves for Lausanne through the rippling grey waters of lac Léman.

A brief but spectacular train ride along the shoreline takes you to the historical yet modern at heart city of Lausanne. But then you are missing out on the best part of the Swiss Riviera! The 32 miles stretch of UNESCO heritage trail through the Lavaux region, separates Lausanne with Montreux, and this is where some of the finest variety of Swiss wines come from.

Started by the Cistercian Monks way back in the twelfth century the terraced vineyards at Dézaley still yields truly world class Chasselas based wines. Switzerland has always known for its mountains, cheese, chocolates, Oh! and ever punctual trains, but never for its wines! With its wide repertoire of grapes and distinctive wine making styles Swiss wine is a veritable treasure trove waiting to be discovered. 

The wine trail is perfect for two days long hiking trip. But if you are not much into wines or your daily walk is limited between the parking lot and the office desk, you have better choice. Take a short train ride from Montreux to Vevey in the direction of Lausanne and board Les Train des Vignes. As the train meanders its way through the endless acres of the appellation and climbs uphill, the sun-drenched Corniche de Lavaux opens up for you. Get down at the small village of Chexbres and start walking down the gentle slopes of the well marked trail towards Cully.  The lake Geneva will remain your constant companion as you trudge along this historical trail through the terraced vine yards. The small villages like St. Saphorin, Rivaz or Riex could be the ideal resting places on the way. Try out fresh fishes from the lake, the local cheese and variety of sausages aptly complimented with the red or white from the restaurantiers’ own backyard. The people are warm and friendly at heart and just Bonjour Monsieur or Bonjour Madam can do the trick. Explore the caveaux or the wine cellars and taste some of the finest of Gamay, Chasselas or Pinot Gris. Usually the cellars remain open between 4 and 5 in the afternoon and you need to take prior appointments with the wine makers. Meanwhile take a nap on the grass at terrace of La Mottage or sip some more wine and see the distant sail boats on the lake, as time goes gently by. The rustic charm of the small villages, the earthly flavor of the wine, the breeze and the Lac Léman, a memory forever!

As you move out of your state of perpetual bliss in Lavaux and step into the multi-ethnic vibrancy of Lausanne, almost, almost immediately you would fall in love with it. Lausanne, known for its Protestant history has transformed into a modern day city for rich and famous. From the busy alleys with their flea markets in the old town to the hip cafés and boutiques, Lausanne is an absorbing city. Here the Chardonnay sipping – Cézanne chasing ones mingle with the Gitanes smoking University crowd at ease. 

The ladies at the information counter in the station are pretty and ever helpful. Oui, they do speak English! Start your day at the steep cobbled stone slopes opposite to the station. Then head in the direction of the older part of the city. Walk your way past the numerous pavement cafés and flower market to reach Notre-Dam. With its carefully crafted portals, porches and rose windows, this thirteenth century Cathedral built in French Gothic style is arguably the finest in Switzerland. Climb up the south-west tower to get a spectacular panoramic view of the city and the Lake Geneva. Around the Cathedral you could find some really charming narrow alleys strewn with studios and old book shops. At the heart of the old town lies the square of Place de la Palud. On market days of Wednesday and Saturday this place gets really busy. The fresh produces from the surrounding areas, good cheese and café with crépe draws in the locals and a perfect place to get charmed by something so mundane! 

No trip to Lausanne is complete until you see the famous Olympic Museum located on the lakefront of quai d’Ouchy. The promenade along the shoreline takes you to this famous landmark next to the International Olympic Committee’s world headquarter.  The promenade has a very relaxed air attached to it. Whether you are sitting on a bench, reading a book or just casually gazing at the pristine blue water of the lake or just dozing your holiday of it’s all your choice! 

That is so special about the Swiss Riviera, it’s not your regular weekend holiday destination or an ever busy hiking trail or a ski slope. It’s a place where you are never in a hurry to catch the next tram, or to bargain for a pricy watch or waiting in the queue to get a good dinner at a snobbish restaurant. You enjoy at your own pace yet you get the best of the goodies. So, when the inter regio to Bern leaves the station and the glittering waters of the lake at sundown bids you ‘good bye’, you leave with fistful of precious memories, which you won’t let ever slip off your heart!